The city of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island is just 50 kilometres away from the greater Vancouver area, across the Strait of Georgia, but it feels as if it is a world away.
From the mainland of British Columbia, getting to Nanaimo involves a ferry ride from either Tsawwassen or Horseshoe Bay. The ride from Tsawwassen in Richmond to Duke Point takes two hours, while the ride from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver to Departure Bay is one hour and 40 minutes.
We decided to take the ferry from Tsawwassen, and the two-hour journey helped us slow down and prepare for some well-deserved time off. Arriving at Duke Point, we learned that it is just a 16-minute drive into the city of Nanaimo. From Departure Bay, the drive would be just nine minutes.
Nanaimo, with a population of 108,000, is the second-largest city on Vancouver Island, after Victoria. It is known as the Harbour City and it has its own distinct character, with a variety of unique neighbourhoods and sectors. The atmosphere can change noticeably within just a few blocks.
We stayed at the newly renovated Coast Bastion Hotel, in the city’s downtown and close to the waterfront.
Every room in this hotel has a small Juliet balcony, and all the rooms have at least a partial view of the ocean and the Nanaimo Harbour.
““We loved walking past the front desk because it was always a chance for treats and cuddles from the front desk staff.”
Mikki and Merlot
The hotel is dog-friendly, and the staff enjoyed giving treats to our two dogs. They had an area just outside the front of the hotel where we could take the dogs for early morning and late-night walks.
From the hotel, it is only a few steps to Nanaimo’s downtown core. The area has a character all its own and it is worth the time to wander the streets during the day, checking out the ambiance and atmosphere.
The narrow streets in the older part of Nanaimo fan out from the harbour and do not form a straight-line grid. Also, the city is built on a slope, with elevation gains as one goes farther from the waterfront. It is useful to carry a map or have a navigation app on the phone when exploring the downtown.
This part of the city has plenty of small shops, bookstores, coffee shops, bakeries and more. It is worth taking some time to explore this area.
One stop we recommend is Red’s Bakery, at 101 Commercial St. in the old town. Those who live in Nanaimo say it has the best Nanaimo bars in the city. They were definitely the best Nanaimo bars we had ever bad. The bakery also offers a Nanaimo bar cheesecake, which is equally delicious, and puts a fresh twist on the legendary bar.
Closer to the harbour, there are plenty of small shops, coffee shops, cafes and restaurants along the waterfront.
“We enjoyed a number of leisurely strolls along the boardwalk and various piers at the waterfront. We were treated to a stunning sunset during one of these walks.”
Kim
Troller’s Fish and Chips on the marina was recommended as a great place to enjoy an outdoor meal, and its reputation was well-deserved.
The place has a casual vibe and setting and is dog-friendly. It was busy the whole time we were there, and the fish and chips were delicious and filling. Enjoying fish and chips at the waterfront is definitely recommended.
For a nearby excursion, we spent some time exploring Saysutshun (Newcastle Island) Marine Provincial Park.
This park is an island close to the city, accessible by a passenger ferry or by boat. We took the dog-friendly foot ferry from Maffeo-Sutton Park on Comox Road.
Once on the island, there were plenty of hiking and interpretive trails to explore, with a lot of amazing views along the way. We followed a path along the shore and we stopped often to take in the amazing views and snap some photos.
There are also day-use picnic areas and campsites in the park, as well as a concession stand which is open during the warmer months, although it wasn’t open when we were there.
While we were at the park for several hours, it was not enough time to explore all the trails or see all the sites. This is a spot we will likely revisit during a future trip.
Returning from Saysutshun (Newcastle Island), we spent some time in Maffeo-Sutton Park. The park has a harbourfront walkway, a lagoon and a fishing pier. The giant and colourful Nanaimo sign, in the middle of this park, is a popular tourist attraction and a great background for a picture.
After a couple of days in Nanaimo, we travelled north to Comox and Courtenay to continue our Vancouver Island vacation. However, we plan to return to Nanaimo later, to discover more of the sights and attractions of the Harbour City.
